Pan Fried Catfish
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I have been so excited to share this recipe here, for many different reasons! First, I have so many memories growing up of fishing with my dad and grandfather in the creeks and ponds in central Illinois, where catfish are plentiful. It was the first fish I learned how to butcher (the phrase “there is more than one way to skin a cat” refers to fish by the way, not felines), and the fish I ate most growing up.
The filleting technique is another reason this recipe is so special. The iconic Middendorf’s Seafood Restaurant located in Manchac, LA is home to the original thin fried catfish, and part of my inspiration for this recipe. Workers at Middendor'f’s slice fillets into ultra thin pieces before breading and frying them. After watching a few videos of the staff doing this technique (some without even looking down at the fish), I decided I wanted to give it a try it. The result is lots of crispy breading, and a more equal ratio of breading to fish. In this recipe I show you how to do it in halves, but the cooks at Middendorf’s are so skilled and practiced at their craft, they do it in thirds!
Vivian Howard’s book Deep Run Roots ,which introduced me to the idea of using rice meal in the dredge, was my final inspiration for the catfish. This concept has proven to be a game changer for me when it comes to fried foods, as the rice adds an extra dimension of crispiness to the crust that is hard to match.
Thoughts on the catfish:
While the catfish is pretty well celebrated through most of the south, it does not garner the same appreciation in many other parts of the country. The main complaint I have always heard about the fish is that it tastes “muddy” or “dirty”. While there can be some truth to that if the fish has been ill prepared, it seems more likely a bias based on the catfish’s status as a bottom feeder in muddy ponds and rivers. However if you have a well prepared fillet, I believe they are just as clean tasting as any other white fish out there.
There are a few things that you can do to ensure your catfish doesn’t have that “muddy” flavor. If you are using fish that you have freshly caught while butchering the fish be sure to clean the fillets well with fresh water. This removes the blood, which can give the fish an off taste. Also when you are butchering cut out the thin blood line that lies on the inside of the fillet. If you are shopping for your catfish at the monger or market, make sure you are picking out the pieces that are bright and vibrantly white in color. If they are gray and dull they will taste gray and dull! Now lets get to the fun part!
Photo by Linsey Sowa
Here is what you need:
3 catfish fillets (4-6 oz each)
2 cups buttermilk
1 cup medium grind cornmeal
1 cup long-grain white rice (ground down in a spice mill or food processor)
1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika (I prefer Bourbon Barrel Foods)
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
Vegetable oil for frying
To garnish: (optional)
1/2 cup of sun gold tomato soup with your choice of toppings
Lets filet those fish:
Place your fish in a single layer on a flat sheet tray in the freezer for 15-20 minutes. They should be firm to the touch but not completely frozen. This will make halving them much easier!
When ready to start, place the fillet towards the near edge of your cutting board with the thick end of the fillet facing toward your knife hand.
Place your non-dominant hand FLAT over the fillet with a gentle pressure to hold the fillet in place.
With a thin bladed VERY sharp knife begin to cut half way up the side of the fillet with a gentle slow sawing motion. As you cut, keep the blade level with the cutting board to ensure a even split.
Continue this until you reach the end of the fillet and separate the two pieces.
Repeat this process with the other two fillets.
Once all of your fillets are cut place all them in a flat container with high walls (a baking dish or Tupperware container work well for this), salt and pepper the fillets then fill it with the buttermilk ensuring that all of the fillets are covered. Place container in the fridge for at least an hour.
Photo by Linsey Sowa
Lets fry some fish:
Mix the rice meal, cornmeal, smoked paprika, pepper, and garlic powder in another flat container (a second baking dish or Tupperware container works well for this).
One at a time with a pair of tongs remove the catfish from the buttermilk shaking off the excess and dredging in the dry mix ensuring it is coated completely, and place on a sheet tray with a wire rack. Once all fillets are coated put the tray back into the fridge for 1-2 hours
To fry heat your oil in a 12” cast iron pan or other heavy bottom pan to 350 degrees. Use a instant read or candy thermometer to get your temp right.
As the oil comes to temp remove your fish from the fridge. Once the oil is hot, gently place the fillets in the oil so it doesn’t splash.
Cook each fillet for roughly 3 minutes on both sides until crispy and golden brown.
Once they cooked remove them from the pan and place on a cooling rack and immediately salt them as they cool slightly.
Serve immediately with any side you like, I prefer to use sun gold tomato soup (as seen in the picture left).